Mountains are the most beautiful challenge of nature to man.
A well prepared and planned expedition not only provides a satisfactory and happy experience but also reduces the chances of injury / illness related to mountain climbing.

We had a chance to visit Gangotri Glacier in October 2007.Gangotri Glacier is located in Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand, India, in a region bordering China nearly 19 kilometers from Gangotri. It is one of the largest glaciers in the world.This glacier, source of the Indian holy river Ganga, is one of the largest in the Himalayas. The Gangotri glacier is a traditional Hindu Pilgrimage site. Hindu pilgrims consider taking bath in the icy waters near Gangotri town to be a holy ritual, and many make the trek to Goumukh and Tapovan.The Gaumukh trek starts from Gangotri. The trek to Gaumukh (The snout of the Gangotri Glacier and the source of the Bhagirathi river) was one of the most difficult and dangerous endeavor ever. Every step was full of danger, challenge & excitement. Gaumukh is considered to be the source of “Holy River Ganga” Gangotri is the first place where Ganga flows in to. Gangotri was the place where Sage Bhageeratha brought Ganga from the Deva Loka. In Gaumukh is the Gangotri glacier and from its snount flows the eternal Bhagirathi river which assumes the name Ganga in the town called Deva Prayag, The entire route is dangerous. But the amazing sights along the way and the view of the Gaumukh glacier thaw out the stress in a minute. While we were at the glacier, several large piece of ice were felling in to the river. There is no place to stay at Gaumukh. You will have to return to Bhojbasa for a night shelter where government of Uttarakhand has setup dormitory & tents with all fooding facilities which is run & managed by GMVNL. You may face snowy winds or, worse weather the snow, rains and thunder. Doctor’s advice is to think less, see more, walk hard, eat well and drink not (at high altitudes, lack of oxygen makes drinking more dehydrating and nausea follows). Further up four km from Gaumukh is Tapovan where the nascent form of the Bhagirathi flows in childlike glory. The journey to Tapovan is a tiresome one so advance at your own risk. Guide will be of help if you have no experience in trekking before. Hire one from Bhojbasa. Tapovan is a meadow (bugyal), with an icy stream of the Bhagirathi slicing it in two large parts. If you have all proper equipment (like ice axe, ropes etc.) you can try and go further down to Nandan Van or Vasuki Tal, via a glacier trek. But remember that this is really tough task.The source of Ganga is at Gaumukh (the shape of the ice formation is like a cow's mouth), where the mighty river emerges from the depths of Gangotri glacier. The Gangotri glacier is situated at the height of 4255 meter (14170 feet) above sea level. Bhagirathi starts its long journey downwards where later it joins river 'Alaknanda' and becomes Ganga. There are many legends associated with river Ganga, some of which are even mentioned in the ancient holy scriptures.
The expedition can be basically divided into the following phases :-
1) Preparation :- Any challenges are first overcome in mind before actually on ground. In modern day of internet lot of researches can be easily done and found in the living room on an armchair. A well researched expedition is full of enjoyment & no chaos or confusion. At least 8 weeks before actual expedition the climbers must start taking long walks at a reasonable place to building the cardio- repertory reserve and physical stamina.

Pre climb medical assessment & investigations like Hb, urine R/E, Blood sugar- F&PP, Urea & creetinine, Chest X-ray, ECG for for age >35, is a must. Equipment & clothing ~ All good cities have specific shop where basic mountaineering equipments are sold. Basic equipments are goggles, Gloves, good Shoes preferably water proof, under paints, woolen socks, sleeping bags, monkey caps, wind cheaters, waterproof caps, inflatable pillows, small stove, candles or emergency light, water bottles, matches & lighters, ballpoint pen & paper, camera & spare films, plates, spoons & drinking glasses of ebony / food grade plastic, soap, toothpaste, razor, foam, tissue paper, rubber slippers. i) Theoretical preparationsii) Building up stamina in plains.iii) Pre-climb medical checking. iv) Equipment & clothing.v) Medicines & medical emergencies.vi) Communication equipment.

Base camp (Place from where launch starts) :- Base camp is the place from where the actual climb starts from the foot of the mountains. It should be used as a place to rest & prepare and not to roam around & exhausting one self. Pre launch rest is most important.

2) Actual launch into mountains (associated hazards) :-
• Acute mountain sickness• High altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPO)
• High altitude cerebral oedema (HACO)
• Snow blindness• Dehydration and Diarhoea
• Constipation• Insomnia (Lack of sleep)
• Fever and lung infection• Alcohol & mountaineering
• Preventing AMS The key to avoiding AMS is a gradual ascent that gives your body time to acclimatize. People acclimatize at different rates, so no absolute statements are possible, but in general, the following recommendations will keep most people from getting AMS:If possible, you should spend at least one night at an intermediate elevation below 3000 meters.At altitudes above 3000 meters (10,000 feet), your sleeping elevation should not increase more than 300-500 meters (1000-1500 feet) per night.Every 1000 meters (3000 feet) you should spend a second night at the same elevation. Medicines & medical emergencies ~ any individual going for mountain expedition must have the following medicines in his/her medicine chest. Desprin soluble tab. 1 TDS Paracetamol (Crocin) 1 or 2 TDS Diamox (Acetazolamine) 1 TDS (Note:- Increases urination) Cetrizine 1 TDS Cough syrup (Benedryl) 2 tsf TDS Roxithromycin tablets 1 BD Omeperazole (OMEZ) 1 TDS Combiflame 1 TDS Brufen 400 mg 1 BD Eye drops (Ciplex) Relaxyl ointment / Volini Gel. Isabgol husk packet ORS packets (Electrol) Glucose powder

3) Medical Hazards & treatment :- • Acute mountain sickness : This is presented as headache, lack of sleep, dehydration, body ache and extreme fatigue. This is the first stage of high altitude pulmonary odema. Rx: Tab Disprine 1TDS (After meals)Tab. Diamox (Acetazolamide)1 BD (Acetazolamide (Diamox®) is a medication that forces the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, the base form of carbon dioxide; this re-acidifies the blood, balancing the effects of the hyperventilation that occurs at altitude in an attempt to get oxygen. This re-acidification acts as a respiratory stimulant, particularly at night, reducing or eliminating the periodic breathing pattern common at altitude. Its net effect is to accelerate acclimatization. Acetazolamide isn't a magic bullet; cure of AMS is not immediate. It makes a process that might normally take about 24-48 hours speed up to about 12-24 hours. Acetazolamide is a sulfonamide medication, and persons allergic to sulfa medicines should not take it. Common side effects include numbness, tingling, or vibrating sensations in hands, feet, and lips. Also, taste alterations, and ringing in the ears. These go away when the medicine is stopped. Since acetazolamide works by forcing a bicarbonate diuresis, you will urinate more on this medication. Uncommon side effects include nausea and headache. A few trekkers have had extreme visual blurring after taking only one or two doses of acetazolamide; fortunately they recovered their normal vision in several days once the medicine was discontinued. Rest Lots of fluids i.e. electrolytes  Delaying climb for acclimatization • HAPO : Appears after acute ascent without acclimatization. This presents cough, deficiency in breathing, headache, restlessness, decrease in urine output, altered sensorium, listlessness. air hunger. Rx: Required descent to lower altitude.  Tab. Diamox (Acetazolamide)1 BD Avoid dehydration (Drink ORS water frequently)  Appearance of HAPO requires cancellation of climb & descent to base camp.• Snow blindness : Use goggles & eye drops.• Dehydration : Mix ORS in drinking water while climbing.• Constipation : Isabgol husk.• Fever & lung infection : Rx: Tab Roxid (roxithromycin) 100 mg BD x 5 Days Tab. Crocin 1 TDS Syp. Benadryle 2 tsf TDS • Alcohol & mountaineering :  Alcohol is strict. NO – NO – ALCOHOL  Alcohol causes loss of heat from body and dehydration.  It dull reflexes and gives a false sense of ‘Bravado’ and will commits mistakes.  Things to Avoid :Respiratory depression (the slowing down of breathing) can be caused by various medications, and may be a problem at altitude. The following medications can do this, and should never be used by someone who has symptoms of altitude illness (these may be safe in persons who are not ill, although this remains controversial):AlcoholSleeping pills (acetazolamide is the sleeping tablet of choice at altitude)Narcotic pain medications in more than modest doses

4) De-induction :- De-induction from mountains should be slow and systematic as lot of accidents occur due to loss of vigilance by climbers who feel they have completed climb successfully and are on top of the world. OxygenAMS symptoms resolve very rapidly (minutes) on moderate-flow oxygen (2-4 liters per minute, by nasal cannula). There may be rebound symptoms if the duration of therapy is inadequate - several hours of treatment may be needed. In most high altitude enviroments, oxygen is a precious commodity, and as such is usually reserved for more serious cases of HACO and HAPO.

• If you feel unwell at altitude it is altitude illness until proven otherwise.
• Never ascend with symptoms of AMS.
• If you are getting worse (or have HACO or HAPO), go down at once.

NOTE: - All medical & other mountaineering opinion given above is an idea & our personal experience and view. Please take proper medical advice from a Doctor and mountaineering expert. I am in no way responsible for any legal consequences.

Please expose of your garbage (like plastic drinking bottles) in a responsible way.